Subat

Ixtapa Mexico

Zihuatanejo ([siwata'nexo]) is the fourth-largest city in the state of Guerrero, Mexico. Politically it belongs to the municipality of Zihuatanejo de Azueta in the western part of Guerrero, on the Pacific Coast, about 240 km (approximately 145 miles) northwest of Acapulco. The modern tourist resort of Ixtapa is 5 km away.

Zihuatanejo is the seat of government for the municipality and the principal community in the region. Ixtapa is a government-planned tourist resort that was begun in the early 1970s and constructed on what was once a coconut plantation and mangrove estuary. Zihuatanejo reported a population of 62,367 in the 2005 Mexican census, whereas the population of Ixtapa was 6,406 persons. The municipality of Zihuatanejo de Azueta had a population of 104,609 and encompasses an area of 1,921.5 km²

Guadalajara Mexico

Capital of Jalisco and second city of the Mexican Republic, GUADALAJARA has a reputation as a slower, more conservative and traditional place than Mexico City, somewhere you can stop and catch your breath. Many claim that this is the most Mexican of Mexican cities, having evolved as a regional centre of trade and commerce, without the imbalances of Monterrey’s industrial giants or Mexico City’s chaotic scale. Being less frenetic than the capital, however, doesn’t make it peaceful, and by any standards this is a huge, sprawling, noisy and energetic city. Growth has, if anything, been accelerating in recent years, boosted by the campaign to reduce Mexico City’s pollution by encouraging people and industry to move to the provinces, and its partial conversion to a sleek metropolis has resulted in a hike in prices and some sacrifice of Mexican mellowness in favour of a US-style business ethic. However, enthusiasm for the new has not replaced affection for the old and it’s still an enjoyable place to visit, with the edge on all other big cities of Mexico for trees and flowers, cleanliness and friendliness. It also remains a great place to see something of traditional and modern Mexico, offering everything from museums, galleries and colonial architecture, to magnificent revolutionary murals by José Clemente Orozco, to a nightlife enlivened by a large student population.

Parks, little squares and open spaces dot Guadalajara, while right downtown around the cathedral is a series of plazas unchanged since the days of the Spanish colonization. This small colonial heart of the city can still, at weekends especially, recall an old-world atmosphere and provincial elegance. The centre is further brightened by the Plaza Tapatía, which, driven straight through the heart of some of the oldest parts in the late nineteenth century, manages to look as if it has always been there. It creates new sight-lines between some of Guadalajara’s most monumental buildings and opens out the city’s historical core to pedestrians, as well as mariachi bands and street theatre. Around this relatively unruffled nucleus revolve raucous and crowded streets more typical of modern Mexico, while further out still, in the wide boulevards of the new suburbs, you’ll find smart hotels, shopping malls and modern office blocks.

Acapulco Mexico

Everyone – even if they’ve not the remotest idea where it is – has heard of ACAPULCO, but few people know what to expect. Truth is that, as long as you don’t yearn to get away from it all, you’ll find almost anything you want here, from magnificent beaches by day to clubs and discos by night. That said, however, the manicured and sanitized hotel zone, where everything is geared towards North American package tourists, can be thoroughly off-putting, as can some of the restaurants and clubs, which exhibit a snobbery seldom seen elsewhere in Mexico. In the old town, the grime, congestion and exhaust fumes are the most apparent aspects of the city’s pollution problem, which peaks in the rainy season when everything from plastic bags to dead dogs gets washed off the streets and back alleys into the bay.

What Acapulco undoubtedly has going for it, however, is its stunning bay: a sweeping scythe-stroke of yellow sand backed by the white towers of the high-rise hotels and, behind them, the jungly green foothills of the Sierra. And, even though there are hundreds of thousands of people here throughout the year – the town itself has a population approaching one and a half million and even out of season (busiest months are Dec–Feb) most of the big hotels remain nearly full – it rarely seems oppressively crowded. Certainly there’s always space to lie somewhere along the beach, partly because of its sheer size, partly because of the number of rival attractions from hotel pools to parasailing and “romantic” cruises. Hawkers, too, are everywhere – there’s no need to go shopping in Acapulco, simply lie on the beach and a string of goods will be paraded in front of you. Most of the hawkers are easy enough to handle, but they can become irritating and at times heavy. For women, and women alone in particular, the constant pestering of would-be gigolos can become maddening, and for anyone the derelict downtown backstreets can be dangerous at night – remember that this is still a working port of considerable size and in the midst of all the tourist glitz real poverty remains: don’t leave things lying about on the beach or temptingly displayed in hotel rooms.

Though there’s little to show for it now beyond the star-shaped Fuerte de San Diego and a few rusty freighters tied up along the quayside, Acapulco was from the sixteenth century one of Mexico’s most important ports, the destination of the famous Nao de China, which brought silks and spices from Manila and returned laden with payment in Mexican silver. Most of the goods were lugged overland to Veracruz and from there shipped onwards to Spain. Mexican Independence, Spain’s decline and the direct route around southern Africa combined to kill the trade off, but for nearly three hundred years the shipping route between Acapulco and the Far East was among the most prized and preyed upon in the world, attracting at some time or other (if you believe all the stories) every pirate worth the name. In one such raid, in 1743, Lord Anson (the “Father of the British Navy”) picked up silver worth as much as £400,000 sterling from a single galleon and altogether, with the captured ship and the rest of its cargo and crew, collected booty worth over a million even then. With the death of its major trade, however, Acapulco went into a long, slow decline, only reversed with the completion of a road to the capital in 1928. Even so, but for tourism it would today be no more than a minor port.

San Miguel de Allende Mexico

San Miguel de Allende is the seat of the municipality of Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico, a historic town founded in 1542 that has become an attractive tourist destination for wealthy Mexico City residents and has a large American and Canadian expatriate community comprised primarily of retirees.

Mexico City Mexico

Set over 2400m up in its shallow mountain bowl and crammed with over 20 million people (from fewer than five million in 1960), MEXICO CITY is one of the world’s most densely populated urban areas, said to receive a thousand immigrants each day from the rest of the country. At times frustrating, the longer you spend there the more rewarding it can become, with unstructured wandering throwing up all sorts of surprises, and in a few days you can get around the main sights and soak up a good deal of the vibrant atmosphere. Despite a certain seediness found amidst the elegance of the new quarters and the genteel decay of the older parts of the city, the capital is nowhere near as intimidating as you might expect. Nonetheless, you may still prefer to take in the city a couple of days at a time, taking off in between to the smaller neighbouring colonial cities to recharge. You’ll also find the city easier still if you acclimatize to the country first – if at all possible try not to spend too long here when you first arrive.

As you fly in or arrive by bus over the mountains, you’ll catch glimpses of Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl, the volcanoes which every visitor used to admire, and which Sybille Bedford, author of a book on Mexico in the early 1950s, described as “Japanese-contoured shapes of pastel blue and porcelain snow, and thin formal curls of smoke afloat in a limpid sky”. These days, “Popo” is more often perceived as a threat, with the international press depicting its recent activity as a major menace to the capital. In reality, the volcano is 65km away, and though dust may temporarily close the airport during major outpourings, the city is highly unlikely to get smothered. The volcanoes are now rarely visible from the centre, courtesy of the city’s pollution, which compensates by diffracting the light and producing wonderful golden sunsets.

Cozumel Mexico

Mexico’s largest island, Cozumel, is a heady mix of cosmopolitan restaurants, hotels and shops set amidst astounding natural beauty. It has become famous for its superb scuba diving, and also as a cruise ship destination where stylish amenities are offered in a simple island atmosphere.

San Miguel de Cozumel

Cozumel’s only town, San Miguel, has a laid back elegance combining the charming remnants of colonial Mexico with the conveniences of modern life. Its heart and soul is the center plaza, known officially as Parque Benito Juarez, but often referred to as the zocalo, or simply as Plaza Central . Shops, restaurants and hotels surround the plaza, and since the whole area is blocked off to traffic, it can become quite crowded. Still, the area is a pleasant place for a paseo (walk), particularly on Sunday evenings when the locals gather to enjoy the free open-air concerts and dances. The main stretch, Avenida Rafael Melgar, is lined with high-end jewelry boutiques, souvenir shops, department stores and restaurants.

Running parallel to Avenida Melgar is the malecón, an ocean-side boardwalk decorated with sculptures commemorating events in Cozumel’s history. Follow it north to the tidy Museo de la Isla de Cozumel to learn more about the Maya. Downtown San Miguel is also the place to find family-owned hotels with lower prices and a more Mexican atmosphere. When the plaza or main streets get congested from cruise ship traffic, walk east from 25 Avenida A onwards into the more residential neighborhoods, where the small tiendas (stores) and markets charge local prices.

Costera Norte

North and south of San Miguel are where the luxurious hotels and beaches start. The Costera Norte (North Coast), informally called Zona Hotelera Norte, begins just past the airport road. Much of its beachfront has been taken over by posh resorts with their grand lobbies and pools. The longest beach is Playa Santa Pilar, followed by Playa San Juan . Here the north road ends and you must take a boat to reach the pristine north coast lagoons, such as Laguna Ceiga or the uninhabited Isla de Pasion .

Costera Sur

The Southern Hotel Zone, located along Carretera Chankanaab, and also known as the Costera Sur, offers the best beaches beginning at Playa Corona and ending at Playa Palancar . The famous coral reef running parallel to this part of the coast is a protected zone called Parque Marino de Cozumel .

The first attraction along the way is the popular Parque Chankanaab , a park with a landlocked lagoon connected to the sea. Just off the fine sandy beach is excellent snorkeling where you can spot tame fish, underwater statues, a sunken ship and a pirate cannon.

The two largest beaches, Playa San Francisco and Playa Mia , are popular spots with the cruise ship crowd that swarms both beaches by early afternoon. On Sundays, Playa San Francisco is the gathering spot for Mexican families who come to enjoy the beach and bring along their music, games and family picnics. You may want to visit Mr. Sancho’s for its free admission, laid-back beach atmosphere and good Mexican cuisine. Crowds and noise aside, both beaches offer excellent swimming and snorkeling. Those in search of more tranquility can follow the highway west to where Costera Sur takes a northern turn becoming the Costera Este (Eastern) Highway. Here the beaches are wild, wind-swept and, for the most part, deserted. Along the way is Cozumel’s original settlement founded in 1847. El Cedral is now a charming farming community known for its country fairs. Beside its modern church are the remains of the oldest Mayan structure on the island. Signs along the highway will point you in the right direction.

Parque Punta Sur to Punta Molas

Just as the highway turns north you will find Parque Punta Sur , a national wildlife refuge. Inside the park is the ancient Mayan lighthouse, El Caracol, which was built as an early hurricane warning system. At the southernmost tip is Punta Celarain Faro , a historic lighthouse that has been transformed into a navigational museum.

Playa Paraíso is the first beach just outside of the park’s entrance. Close to Playa Chen Rio are two smaller Mayan ruins, El Mirador and El Trono. The best beaches for swimming are found at the crescent shaped Punta Chiqueros cove and at Playa San Martin . If you are on this beach during the full moon in May or June, you may see giant sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Further north is Punta Morena , which is popular with surfers and boogie boarders because of its pounding surf.

Punta Este has a blustery beach, perfect for beachcombing, and is the final stop before the paved highway turns west and becomes Avenida Benito Juarez, leading back into San Miguel. An unpaved road continues north, leading to some of the most unspoiled beaches: Ixpal Barco, Los Cocos, Hanan Reef, Ixlapak and Playa Bonita are all what you would expect from a Caribbean beach. Along the way is the Mayan ruin of Castillo Real . The roads end at Punta Mola Faro , the island’s most northern point. A tour is recommended to explore this extremely rugged area.

Ixchel’s Ceremonial Center

Located in the lush sub-tropical forest, the serene San Gervasio ruins were once a ceremonial center where Ixchel, the Maya goddess of fertility and childbirth, was worshipped. Believed to have been occupied from 300 to 1500 AD, San Gervaiso has many excellent examples of Classic and Post-Classic Mayan architecture. Guides are available at the site, but you can also buy an excellent guidebook at the museum in town.

Mainland

Cozumel is 11.5 miles (18 km) from the mainland and Playa del Carmen , one of the largest cities along the Riviera Maya coastline, is a 45-minute ferry ride away. From there it’s a one hour bus ride south to the Mayan ruins of Tulum , or north to the mega-resorts of Cancun. Other nearby attractions include underground caves, snorkeling at Xel-Ha , and the unashamedly commercial Mayan theme park, Xcaret .

Playa del Carmen Mexico

PLAYA DEL CARMEN (known simply as Playa) once a soporific, very Mexican fishing village, has mushroomed in recent years and now has the dubious distinction of being the world’s fastest growing town (by a rate of 26 percent per annum), according to the Guinness Book of Records. It’s expensive and overcrowded, not only with holiday-makers but also thousands of day-trippers from Cancún and passing Caribbean cruise ships. As a result the town’s main centre of activity, Av 5 (or Quinta), a long, pedestrianized strip one block back from the sea, is often packed to capacity with visitors rapidly emptying their wallets in pavement cafés, souvenir and silver-jewellery outlets and designer clothes shops. Additionally, with the arrival of US fast-food giants McDonalds, Burger King and TFI Friday, Playa’s rather chic European atmosphere is giving way to a blander, more homogenized culture. The beach, however, is one of the prettiest on the coast with unfeasibly white sand and gloriously clear sea and the entire town is, for the moment, still compact and easily covered on foot – as well as playing host to the best nightlife on the Riviera Maya. The reef offshore is almost as spectacular here as in Cozumel and there are scores of professional scuba-diving operations in Playa – recommended is Tank-Ha, Av 5 between C 8 and 10 (tel 9/873-0302, www.tankha.com) which offers PADI certification courses (US$350), one- and two-tank dives (US$45–65) and whole dive packages (from US$175) as well as twice-daily snorkeling tours (9.30am & 1.30pm; US$25; 3hr). If you’re a real thrill-seeker, you can sky-dive from Playa with Sky-Dive Playa del Carmen, Plaza Marina (tel 9/873-0192, www.skydive.com.mx), which comes in at US$200 for a tandem dive with a certified instructor.

Cabo San Lucas Mexico

The bay of Cabo San Lucas, at the southernmost tip of Baja, was once a base for pirate ships waiting to pounce on Spanish treasure ships. Even fifteen years ago, it was little more than a fishing and canning village occasionally visited by adventurous sports fishermen with the means to sail in or fly down, but it quickly earned a reputation for the marlin that could be caught here, and the once-quiet place found itself inundated with fishermen in search of El Marlin Azul, home to sleek, radar-equipped fishing yachts.

In recent years, it has rapidly become the focal point of Los Cabos: million-dollar condos have sprung up, palms have been transplanted, golf courses have been laid, water has been piped in from San José and everywhere is kept pristine. More like an enclave of the US than part of Mexico, preserving almost nothing that is not geared to tourism, it can be fun for a day or two, unless, of course, you want to fish or dive. Though prices are higher than in neighbouring San José, there’s more of a party atmosphere, with a younger crowd. Currently there are some 3000 rooms for rent, and the local feeling is that 10,000 is the next feasible “goal” that would equate the town with the long-established resorts such as Mazatlán or Acapulco. Upcoming developments include an enormous mall that will comprise a convention centre, a theatre complex, a bowling alley, a huge parking outlet and condos, and there are even plans for an artificial island to sit in the bay, complete with restaurants and bars.

Puerto Vallarta Mexico

By reputation the second of Mexico’s beach resorts, PUERTO VALLARTA is smaller, quieter and younger than Acapulco. In its own way, it is actually every bit as commercial – perhaps more so, since here tourism is virtually the only source of income – but appearances count for much, and Puerto Vallarta, while doing all it can to catch up with Acapulco, appears far less developed and retains a more Mexican feel.

It lies in the middle of the 22-kilometre wide Bahía de Banderas, the seventh largest bay in the world, fringed by endless sandy beaches and backed by the jungly slopes of the Sierra Madre. Its hotels are scattered along several miles of coast with the greatest concentration in Nuevo Vallarta, north of the town and sliced through by an eight-lane strip of asphalt. Just south of Nuevo Vallarta is the new marina, where you can stroll along the boardwalk and have a look at how the other half live, on beautiful boats. Despite the frantic development of the last decade, the historic town centre, with its cobbled streets and white-walled, terracotta-roofed houses, sustains the tropical village atmosphere, an asset assiduously exploited by the local tourist authorities.

The town’s relative youth is undoubtedly a contributing factor. Until 1954 Puerto Vallarta was a small fishing village where the Río Cuale spills out into the Bahía de Banderas; then Mexicana airlines, their hand forced by Aeroméxico’s monopoly on flights into Acapulco, started promoting the town as a resort. Their efforts received a shot in the arm in 1964, when John Huston chose Mismaloya, 10km south, as the setting for his film of Tennessee Williams’ play The Night of the Iguana, starring Richard Burton. The scandalmongering that surrounded Burton’s romance with Elizabeth Taylor – who was not part of the cast but came along – is often attributed to putting Puerto Vallarta firmly in the international spotlight: “a mixed blessing” according to Huston, who stayed on here until his death in 1987, and whose bronze image stands on the Isla Río Cuale in town.

The package tourists stay, on the whole, in the beachfront hotels around the bay, but are increasingly penetrating the town centre to shop in the pricey boutiques and malls that line the streets leading back from the beach, and to eat in some of the very good restaurants both on the malecón and downtown. Nevertheless, what could be a depressingly expensive place to visit turns out to be liberally peppered with good-value hotels and budget restaurants, especially during the low season (Aug–Nov).

Puerto Vallarta today is one of the gay centres of Mexico, with a great deal more tolerance for – and entertainment geared towards – the gay scene than almost any other Mexican town.

Cancun Mexico

Hand-picked by computer, CANCÚN is, if nothing else, proof of Mexico’s remarkable ability to get things done in a hurry if the political will is there. A fishing village of 120 people as recently as 1970, it’s now a city with a resident population of half a million and receives almost two million visitors a year. To some extent the computer selected its location well. Cancún is marginally closer to Miami than it is to Mexico City, and if you come on an all-inclusive package tour the place has a lot to offer: striking modern hotels on white-sand beaches; high-class entertainment including parachuting, jet-skiing, scuba-diving and golf; a hectic nightlife; and from here much of the rest of the Yucatán is easily accessible. For the independent traveller, though, it is expensive, and can be frustrating and unwelcoming. You may well be forced to spend the night here, but without pots of money the true pleasures of the place will elude you.

There are, in effect, two quite separate parts to Cancún: the zona commercial downtown – the shopping and residential centre which, as it gets older, is becoming genuinely earthy – and the zona hotelera, a string of hotels and tourist amenities around “Cancún island”, actually a narrow strip of sandy land connected to the mainland at each end by causeways. It encloses a huge lagoon, so there’s water on both sides.